Nepal is one of the world’s gems for mountaineering adventure activities. Among the more than thirteen thousand peaks above 6000 meters, 602 peaks are open for mountaineering by the Government of Nepal and Department of Tourism. Of these, 414 peaks have had open routes climbed by climbers of different nationalities and at different times and 188 remain unclimbed, “virgin” peaks ready for exploration.
In 2013, the Government of Nepal announced a “free permit” policy for peaks below 5800. Due to the shear volume of peaks in Nepal, the Government of Nepal generally classifies the 6000-meter peaks as “trekking peaks” some of which may require some technical skills (which we describe below). These mountains require trekking permits, whereas the higher and more technical mountains considered “mountaineering” mountains require mountaineering permits. Although Nepal has so many 6000 meter peaks classified as easy, moderate or challenging (creating a suitable climbing experience for adventure seekers), we still require that climbers have previous experience in rock / ice climbing techniques and know how to use an ice axe and crampons, and how to ascend and descend on fixed lines.
Of the 6000 meter peaks open for climbing, Satori Adventures and Expeditions considers the 10 trekking peaks described below as a “top 10” peak based on interest by climbers, number of climbers, and how well known and popular they are among operators and climbers alike. Permits for these peaks are issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (“NMA”).
Mera Peak(6,476m/ 21,247ft)
Mera Peak is situated in the Solukhumbu District of Nepal, which is 6654 meters high. It is also well known for its most exceptional view of five more than 8000-meter peaks like Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga. Mera Peak Climbing (6654m) is the highest peak allowed for climbing in Nepal and also regarded as the one not demanding technical climbing.
Mera peak climbing is progressively attracting trekkers and novice climbers to have the feeling of hiking and climbing on snow and experiencing trekking in an isolated part of the Khumbu region. The unspoiled and uninhabited Hinku valley below the Mera peak is one of the wildest and most beautiful in Nepal with its massive moraines, glacial lakes, and stunning mountain views offered during the Climbing of Mera peak. This Mera Peak Climbing trip is a rewarding experience as it provides glorious views of Nepal and a vista that takes you to the Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east and Everest appearing over the massive southern aspect of Nuptse and Lhotse to the north.
Mera Peak Trekking is best option for a trekker with modest experience of mountaineering. Its elevation is a challenge for a trekking peak. On the way to the top, one has to encounter with high and difficult passes, however basic technical skills of mountaineering should overcome these barriers. Trekking to the top of Mera Peak leads to the real mountaineering experiences.
Island Peak(6,189m/ 20,305ft)
Imja Tse peak or also popularly known as Island Peak stands tall with modest height of 6,189m. English Mountaineer Eric Shipton named it as an Island Peak in 1953. He thought it resembles an island in a sea of ice seeing it from Dingboche. In 1983, Island Peak again got its new name as Imja Tse. Island peak climbing is done along with the Everest Base Camp Trek. With very little technical aspects, it offers itself even to the beginner climber with competitive endurance. Hence, it is one of the most popular choices among the 6000m. Island Peak welcomes hundreds of climber group each year luring them to its peak.
Lobuche East(6,119m/ 20,070 ft)
Lobuche East climb is a notable selection for a first 6000 meter peak with sensational summit view offering excellent panoramic outlook of Lhotse Face, Pumori, Ama Dablam and notably, a fantastic view of Mt. Everest, which is not visible from Island Peak. It is an exciting and challenging way to extend the classic Everest Base Camp Trek with a beautiful and technical 6000m climb. Lobuche East Trip follows the Everest Base Camp Trail, which in itself is an amazing experience in the Himalaya of Nepal. Proper acclimatization program is important for Lobuche East, and trekking the Everest Base Camp and hike to Kala Patthar provides the perfect preparation to continue on a carefully paced climb of Lobuche East Peak. This peak offers more challenges than its bystanders (Mera Peak, Island Peak), and has a more technical feel to it and is a fitter selection for those who have had some previous mountaineering.
Pachermo Peak (6,187m/ 20,298ft)
Lying close to the Tibetan border, Pacharmo is not a technical climbing, but on account of the altitude and the peak’s remoteness it’s certainly challenging. The views from the summit are stunning and extremely satisfying climax to the trip. Looking west on a clear day we will see all of Rolwaling and as far as Langtang, to the east, the famous mountains of the Khumbu culminate with Mount Everest and to the north lie the bastions of Cho-Oyu and Gyachung Kang. Phil Boultbee and Dennis Davis were the first persons to climb this peak on 18 th April, 1955 , which was led by the well known mountaineer Alf Gregory.
This peak is the perfect trekking peak for those travelers who wish to bisect through the distant landscape with little encounters with other enthusiast trekkers, but still, want the glimpse of the mountains in the Everest as well as in the Rolwaling Region. It is one of the most alluring mountains in Nepal and can be accessed either from the hustling trekking trail of Khumbu region (via Namche Bazzar and Thame) or from off the beaten path of Rolwaling region. Also, it is an ideal choice to experience the culture and lifestyle of Sherpa local residing in this region.
Kyajo Ri (6,186m/ 20,295ft)
Kyajo Ri climb is the highest summit on the southern part of the Khumbu Himal ridge that runs north of Namche Bazaar. Kyajo Ri is a mini-scale expedition style climbing peak which is significantly challenging, physically and technically than other popular trekking peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche East. It is an ideal Himalayan peak for those who want to take the technical challenge of climbing a 6000m+ peak. The climb is a mix of moderate rock climbing and steep alpine ice and snow climbing. Kyajo Ri Base camp is at 4550 meters in a distant valley that’ll be reached after a couple of days walk from Namche Bazaar. A high camp will be set on a glacier at 5200m. Then another camp is established before our final summit push. Finally, an attempt to the summit along the snow in angle with a small rock wall leads the way to the clear summit. The summit view of Kyajo Ri offers spectacular trans Himalaya scene of Mount Cho Oyu (8188m), Mount Everest (8848m) and other giants along with other peaks of both Everest as well as Rolwaling region.
Yala Peak (5,500m/ 18,045ft)
Located closest to Kathmandu, Yala Peak is an excellent choice for physically fit beginner climbers, even if your trekking experience is as limited as your mountaineering experience. To access the peak, you go into the Langtang Valley which has a wonderful mixture of Tamang, Sherpa, and Bhote cultures. Views of the Langtang Range as well as the Tibetan giant, Shishapangma (8013m), appear extraordinary from the summit of Yala. Part of the trek to this peak also includes the holy lake of Gosainkunda and a traverse through the Helambu region which divides the Kathmandu area from Langtang National Park.
Pisang Peak (6091m/ 19980ft)
Pisang Peak 6091m, is a nearly perfect pyramid of ice and snow. Pisang Peak Climbing is one of the popular peaks for climbers in Nepal and rises opposite of Annapurna II (7937). It lays roughly in between the giants’ Annapurna I and Manaslu both over eight thousand’s mountain.Directly above a village with the same name, Pisang, the peak is reached through the northern edge of the Manang Valley. Pisang Peak Climbing follows the beautiful Annapurna Circuit trail to the north side of the Annapurna massive where we are surrounded by peaks on all sides and branches off to the Tibetan style village of Pisang. To reach the base camp from Pisang village, the path ascends through sparse wood and pasture to a Kharka at (4,380m) which is considered the best place for setting up the base camp. The trail from base camp is rocky and the landscape increasingly barren as we approach the South-West Ridge, where we set up High Camp, 5400 m. The ice, snow and lack of protection from the wind make High Camp very cold.From the summit there is a spectacular panorama: Himlung, 7126m and the trans-Himalayan Tibetan plateau to the north; Manaslu, 8163 m and Khangaru, 6981 m to the north east; Annapurna II, 7937 m, and IV, 7525 m, Lamjung, 6983 m to the south; Gangapurna,7454 m, Annapurna III, 7555 m, Glacier Dome, 7069 m and Tilicho Peak, 7134 m to the west.
Dhampus Peak (6,012m/ 19,719ft.)
The adventure begins as you make your way to Pokhara, then fly to Jomsom, which is also the entry point for accessing the Mustang Region. Some will follow the routes of Poon Hill Trek to reach this region and will add adventure and extra days. Dhampus Peak is in the Dhaulagiri Range and is becoming quite popular, but remember, popular doesn’t necessarily mean you will really encounter others when climbing this peak. It is a fairly non-technical peak, and more accessible for those with little mountaineering experience. The Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Ranges spread in front of you as you stand on the top of Dhampus Peak.
Chulu West (6419m/21060ft)
Chulu West peak is part of the Manang Himal, which is quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking map is highly misleading.
A climb of one or both of these peaks combined with Nepal’s most famous Around the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings.
Tent Peak (5,663m/ 18,575ft)
Tent Peak climbing is outstanding trekking peak in Nepal, includes fascinating trekking trail along an Annapurna Base camp ascent to Tent peak 5663 meters High climbing. Also known as Tharpu Chuli in local name. Another major highlight of the trip is an independent exploration of Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC). The summit of Tent peak offers a stunning 363 degrees panoramic view of the surrounding Annapurna massif.
The Tent Peak Climbing trail takes to the Annapurna Base Camp popular Trekking path, the most spectacular high mountain Pitch, through Gurung villages and beautiful rhododendron forests along the trails, Ghorepani, Tadapani, and Chomrong.
To climb Tent Peak, you can do tea house trek till Annapurna base camp and after Basecamp needs to settle a Tent for the high Camp for a night by camping with our staff. Cook, Kitchen few more porters and climbing guide, next day lead to the Tent Peak summit and back to the Annapurna base camp and continue way back to Pokhara doing by tea house trekking along the charming Gurung villages, greenery rhododendron jungle, hot spring, fast flow rivers, and rice paddy.